Topkapi. I visited it today. Most magnificent. I could easily spend a whole day today. I have never seen such beautiful calligraphy. I have seen the rendition of Nasib Makarim of Ra's Al-Hikmah Makhafat Al-Lah, and the ones on the wall of the main gate is so much more beautiful. The "holy" section was closed: so I did not get to see the hair of the Prophet or his sword. This is one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen. You need months to really explore it. I really wish to effusively thank Timor and Cheryl for most wonderful tips and suggestions. I will be eternally grateful for this suggestion. It is a most amazing place. And the dessert known in Turkish as firin sultac is known only among old Beiruti families in Lebanon. They call it Bahtah (and I always loved it). Yet, you will never find it in any store in the whole of Lebanon. My mother sometimes makes it for me. But the food here is not for vegetarians although they do wonders with eggplants. You feel history in every step in this city. I have never seen anything like it. I forgot all about the lizards after one day in Istanbul.